Jesse Sendejas

XTAR PB2SL V2. It's basically a 2 cell lipo charger that doubles as a powerbank. I've got one and it works well. It has a mode that keeps the output "awake" when powering small devices which is handy for electronics projects too. My only complaint is that the batteries are a little too accessible, so I'm hesitant to fly with it.

The MT3 Retro set was never produced, and Drop seems to be phasing out MT3, so it's highly unlikely that it'll ever be produced. There's been some discussion about this on Matt3o's discord.

SA Retro is pretty much the only option, but it is a very nice set.

Same vein, different vibe: Nazi by Chumbawamba

Checkout the Femtofox, it's a Luckfox pico running full Linux with a 1W LoRa module, and it happens to have the Ethernet port built in. Really neat bit of open source kit.

The Chouchou board looks like it is only compatible with choc switches, so that's what you'll need to get. In this case, "choc" is shorthand for "Kailh Choc (or Chocolate) V1" which is arguably the most popular low-profile switch in the mechanical keyboard community. There is a choc V2 switch as well, but few hobbyist boards are designed for it, and it's not strictly compatible with the choc V2 PCB footprint. Do not buy choc V2 for the Chouchou.

Choc v1 switches require their own type of keycaps and are not compatible with the vast majority of keycaps which are designed for MX switches (which is the de facto "normal" switch you find on most mechanical keyboards that are not low-profile). You are correct that "1.5u" means that the keycap is 1.5 units long; you can use 1.5u keycaps for the thumb keys on Chouchou, but 1u keycaps will work too as you can see in the photo in their GitHub repo.

If building this board will be your first soldering project, then you've picked a good one to start with since you won't have to worry about soldering tiny diodes or anything like that. This board has the option of using "hot swap" sockets for the choc switches if you think you'll want to try different variations of the switches, but the PCB also allows you to solder the switches directly to the board if you want something more permanent (and fewer parts).

There is plenty more to know about mechanical keyboards, but the community is friendly, so ask your questions when they come up. Hope that helps!

Thanks for sharing! It sounds like you're getting good results with the filter regardless, but I'd be interested to see the numbers whenever you have a chance to measure again. I've been wanting to try something like this myself, but there are so many bad reviews for different BPFs out there, it's hard to know which vendors to trust.

Did you roll your own BPF, or purchase it? If the latter which one did you get?

I've been using my bad wings (v1) for over a year, and I didn't think I'd ever give it up. It's a 36-key mono-body split with a cirque track pad in the middle, and I use it with a miryoku layout. I used it as my only board for several months after I first built it, but I was constantly using it for travel and project computers (it's perfect for tinkering with raspberry pis), so I put another board at my desktop computer and now my bad wings goes wherever I go for my laptop, or hot-desking, or projects, or anything else. I've even used the track pad on it as my only mouse for days at a time.

I recently bought a bad wings 2 as a back up and so that I could convert my first one to wireless with ZMK. All in all, it's been a fantastic board for me, and I'll definitely be using it for the foreseeable future.

I'm curious what you think about that little joystick; do you find yourself using it much?