Hot take. Your best shot at turning this into a usable food grade cutting board is to mill it into 1x chunks now while it is still wet. Then stack those chunks for drying. They'll get a little warped and shrink during drying but checking should be greatly reduced. Then once dry glue em up into rows and run them through a planer. Then glue those planed rows together and plane that. Square of your edges. Hit it with the router and sander. Then soak in mineral oil. You should now have a decent end grain cutting board.

This was a simplified take, but that's the jist of it.

Every Tesla has an emergency mechanical door handle. On some models, the rear passenger doors do not.

I appreciate folks trying to post content to this otherwise dormant community but please keep articles and discussions focused. There are plenty of communities that discuss politics already.

I appreciate folks trying to post content to this otherwise dormant community but please keep articles and discussions focused. There are plenty of communities that discuss politics already.

I appreciate folks trying to post content to this otherwise dormant community but please keep articles and discussions focused. There are plenty of communities that discuss politics already.

Say 'Climate Crisis'

Not a second hand owner here but I can speak to buying and ownership from the other perspective. 2018 Tesla model 3 lr rwd. Buying process was straightforward, place order online, fill out forms online, bring required papers and checks to pickup, leave with vehicle. I did have some paint chips/scratches from shipping which I raised as an issue to the delivery manager. They put me in a loaner while car was out for repair at body shop. Content with repairs no cost to me.

Looking forward, the past 5.5 years of ownerships have been pretty smooth. No major issues. Some buggy software back in 2018/2019, when they were making tons of new features and updates. It's now pretty stable/mature. All of which were OTA updates. The only physical recall I had was the cable for the backup camera can rub and wear through. So they replaced the harness there during one of my other visits at no charge.

Bring in twice a year for winter/summer tire swap and brake lube. Have had lower control arms go under warranty and a crack in a control rod out of warranty.

Service centers were hit or miss in terms of smoothness. They seem to have gotten better with my more recent experiences.

One of the three 16amp onboard charges has failed. Technically in warranty, but I didn't address it for over a year due to other factors, which is on me. So I've just been riding it out with 32amp charging instead of 48. Still plenty fast for home charging and I don't really see the value in replacing it right now. This doesn't affect supercharging (fastdc charging).

As for software, I did get the FSD package when it was $5k. And got the retrofit 3.0 hardware upgrade (no cost). It's great on highway and I use it pretty regularly. City streets, which is in beta, has been pretty janky but has shown continued improvement. It's not quite smooth enough for passengers imo, but it does some impressive maneuvers at times. I expect some further refinement in here, but I don't expect it to ever achieve what the name it was marketed under. I wouldn't pay much more than $5k for its current capabilities.

My biggest gripe with the car honestly is the auto wipers can be pretty sub par due to their vision based system. Have to use manual mode somewhat often.

No significant battery degradation at 55k mi. Get about 305 on charge. Was 310new and they technically bumped it to 325 sometime afterwards. It's charge as high as 317, but I road trip fairly infrequently to have many data points here.

TLDR, I'd buy another Tesla, but I'd also shop around in 15 yr when I expect to be in the market again.

Agreed, especially for gaming PC. On laptops and generic PC I think there could be a bigger swing, but also you'd need a USB port capable of pushing 30w which is not a standard feature by any means in a PC/laptop.

Counter point. Most computer power supplies have a curve to their charging efficiency (somewhere north of 50% load). If your PC is substantially below the peak of that curve, then adding load (the phone) could raise the PSU's efficiency say from 80 to 85% (I'm making up numbers) which would affect the overall efficiency of the entire PC's load.

I think your answer is still probably correct, but it's an interesting nuance to think about.

Side notes: Some PSU's use gallium, e.g., Corsair ax1600i, though by and large most do not. Also if your in the EU then your working with 220/240v PSU's which adds more efficiency, but that would apply to the phone charger as well.